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This is the project gallery page which shows the progression of knitting through both projects.
This fitted design is intended to fit with no ease. If you have (or intended recipient has) a large bust, this design will look fantastic if you select the size which matches your waist measurement, with bust measurement in pattern as much as 3 inches smaller than true bust of the wearer. For example: My measurements are 39 bust, 28 waist and the Small size gives a very tight sexy fit! The bias nature of this design allows the knit to hug your curves in a most enticing way.
Size: bust-waist | Gothlet/Bride
XS: 34-26 inches Â | Â Â 800/1120 yd
XS:Â 86.5-66 cmÂ Â | Â Â 735/1025 m
S: Â Â Â 36-28 inches | Â Â 850/1170 yd
S:Â Â Â 91.5-71 cm Â Â | Â Â 780/1070 m
M: Â Â 38-30 inchesÂ | Â Â 900/1220 yd
M: Â Â 96.5-76 cm Â Â Â |Â Â 823/1116 m
L: Â Â Â 40-32 inchesÂ | Â Â 950/1295 yd
L:Â Â Â 101.5-81 cmÂ |Â Â 869/1182 m
XL: Â 42-34 inchesÂ |Â Â 1050/1400 yd
XL:Â 107-86.5 cmÂ |Â Â 960/1280 m
** Note that this is intentionally looser than the gauge given for the yarn. ** Gauge over stockinette is 20 sts and 28 rows over 4" or 10cm square. Gauge in lace patt is 24 sts and 24 rows over 4” or 10 cm square. Variations in your row gauge can have a dramatic effect on the fit of this mostly diagonally knit pattern, so do your best to match row gauge.
DK weight mercerized cotton: Classic Elite Provence (205 yards/hank) or alternately, Lana Grossa HP No. 31, Tahki Stacy Charles Cotton Classic, Scheepjeswool Isis. The band should say 5.5 sts/inch. See important notes about gauge. The finished sweater should be dry cleaned to avoid changes in gauge and shape due to shrinkage.
This is my finest example of a sweater knitted organically from start to finish. Like all the designs on this site, this one is my own, and a testament to my knitting insanity.
I'd begun by playing around with a knitted leaf lace pattern, changing the type of decrease and varying the shape of the leaf until it grew into chevron lace with a double decrease ridge in the center. This still had the structured lacy feel I was seeking, but removed the leaf from the design.
It is possible to be freely creative, working without planning in an organic way.... if unexpected things happen, it may be that more ideas will arrive by questioning, and discovering what the fabric wants to do naturally rather than trying to dictate a shape or behaviour that fights with the tendency of the knitting. - Allison Ellen
While winding 5 skeins of Provence by Classic Elite, I was astonished at the generous yardage on each hank. I wondered just how long I'd be able to knit this sweater. I began the knitting with a strip wide enough for a scarf. Then I increased to grow the shoulders into a tubular sleeve flaring to an overlong trumpet at the cuff. Since the lace had a zigzag edge, I staggered it when I picked up stitches on the cast on row so that the center back shoulder seam would lie flat.
I pondered next steps for awhile, and it was about this time that my copy of Alison Ellen's Hand Knitting - New Directions landed on my doorstep to provide just the inspiration I needed. I regarded her remarks on page 20 as a direct challenge:
"It is possible to be freely creative, working without planning in an organic way.... For example, if unexpected things happen, it may be that more ideas will arrive by questioning, and discovering what the fabric wants to do naturally rather than trying to dictate a shape or behaviour that fights with the tendency of the knitting." -- Allison Ellen
This made my brain wiggle with excitement and possibility. I thought, I will let this yarn be whatever it wants to be, so long as it fits. Like the sculptor who frees the sculpture from its marble prison. Luckily, yarn is a good deal more flexible. We knitters are truly blessed: anything is possible!
If an apparently random construction of knitting in different directions is to look purposeful and professional, the tension of the knitting will have to be worked out first, as different numbers of stitches are needed according to the direction of the knitting.
I beg to differ. All you have to do is knit on the bias with short rows. Increase at the midline, and pick up one more stitch from the sleeve piece at the exterior line so that each right side row grows by 2 stitches. When you meet the style line you want to emphasize, wrap yarn around the last stitch on the needle, and pass it to a stitch holder with the non-knitted stitches. Repeat this pass every 1 or 2 rows to get the style line you want.
At this point, it was like I was speaking in tongues. I just picked up and knit, and just went with the flow, and the next thing you know, this is what I had.
The wonder of working on the bias like this is that you can just grow the fabric from the center, and tailor it at the edge when you can see it's ready. Take a chance, just wing it and see what you get. If you don't like it, relax: just unravel back to the last point where you did like it and take another stab at it.
Some admirers of this design have asked why I did not complete the pattern as a jacket, like the original green design. Well, perhaps you've noticed I never supplied you with any close-ups of the finished green sweater, only progress shots. The prototype was flawed. Along the waist, you'll see the prototype jacket used the lace repeat with yo, k1, yo at its center and it began rather abruptly at the side waist. It also had a puckered area near the bottom of the zip because I didn't decrease out the lace repeat very well and finished up the sweater hastily.
During test knitting and pattern scribing, the design evolved to become smoother, longer, more elegant, not puckered, with an edging at the hem. I now use the double decrease as the center of the lace motif along the waist, which begins with a feather tip and melds more elegantly with the central diamond.
I did begin to write this pattern with an open front while knitting the red sample. When I finished up the split central diamond and laid a zip under it, I was dismayed that there was no place for the zipper tape to hide, because now the eyelets (yarnovers) were adjacent to the centerline.
So I ripped back and decreased one less lace repeat at base of diamond so that there would be opaque fabric on either side of the zip. But this added 11 sts to the width of the bottom, and now it fit poorly.
Don't forget that during this time, my book was released. Completing this pattern became an overdue obligation, a test of my ability to document my own mad organic design, and quickly. Many e-mails complimenting the book were tainted with the stink of your disappointment because this pattern was missing. You felt cheated and you said so. It was heartbreaking. Bottling this genie was no mean feat, and time was my enemy.
So I had to stop fucking around with the variation that wasn't depicted in the book. There was just no time for that. I told myself I would just do it later. I had to keep my agreement first and foremost.
When I finally finished up the pattern on February 21, 2007, a great weight was lifted from my shoulders and I could dream again of things other than knitting the Goth. I was happy. I could look the world in the eye and smile again.
Other ideas began to visit and my imagination was restored. I need to move on.
Besides, that zipper had caught the yarn in its nasty teeth, and rippled when I sat or moved the wrong way.
Maybe I'll get to it one day, but only if someone else knits the sweater up to the point where the lace motifs at the side waist waist begin.
So if it means that much to you, match my gauge (28 rows) and e-mail me for shipping details. I'll finish up your jacket and write the pattern for the world. (Offer good only to first taker, sizes XS-M only). Be sure to allow an extra hank of yarn for collar and facing.
But really, I'd much rather move on.
6 (6, 6, 7, 7) skeins
apple green, bleach
5 stitches/inch (loose)
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